A 580 credit score is not a number anyone frames and hangs on the wall. It’s the score that hangs around after a repossession, a maxed-out card, or a mortgage that went sideways during a layoff. It’s also the exact score the Federal Housing Administration says is good enough to buy a house with 3.5% down.
The distance between what the government allows and what a lender will actually approve is where most bad credit buyers get stuck. Understanding how that gap works, and how to close it, is the difference between signing another lease and signing a deed.
What Credit Score Do You Actually Need for an FHA Loan?
FHA guidelines set two hard thresholds, and everything else flows from which side of the line you land on.
580 and above: 3.5% down
At a 580 middle score, you qualify for the standard FHA down payment of 3.5%. On a $300,000 house, that’s $10,500. The FHA loan limit for a single-family home sits at $524,225 in low-cost areas in 2025 and climbs as high as $1,209,750 in the most expensive counties, so the program covers a wide range of price points.
500 to 579: 10% down
Drop below 580 and FHA still backs the loan, but it wants more skin in the game. You’ll need 10% down, which is $30,000 on that same $300,000 house. That single rule change knocks a lot of buyers out of the running, not because of credit but because of cash.
Below 500: FHA is off the table
There is no workaround here. If your middle score is under 500, the FHA program isn’t available to you until it moves. Other paths exist in the meantime, and our breakdown of home buying programs for low credit scores covers which ones are realistic at each score band.
The catch nobody mentions: lender overlays
FHA insures loans. It doesn’t write them. Banks, credit unions and non-bank mortgage companies each layer their own minimums on top of FHA’s rules, and those overlays are usually the real floor you’re fighting against. A large national bank might refuse anything under 640. A regional lender might go to 600. The lenders most willing to work with a 500 to 579 score tend to be credit unions and smaller portfolio lenders who keep loans in-house.
Before you pay a single application fee, ask one question: “What’s your minimum FICO for an FHA loan?” It saves weeks.
Why FHA Underwriting Is More Forgiving of a Rough Past
Conventional loans price risk through credit score. A borrower at 620 typically pays roughly one to one and a half percentage points more in rate than a borrower at 760 for the exact same loan. FHA doesn’t work that way. It has no score-based pricing grid, so a 590 borrower and a 720 borrower often see nearly identical FHA rates. That’s the quiet advantage most people overlook.
The credit event rules are also more human than the headlines suggest:
- Chapter 7 bankruptcy: two years from the discharge date, with re-established credit since.
- Chapter 13 bankruptcy: as little as one year into the repayment plan, with court permission to incur new debt.
- Foreclosure or deed-in-lieu: three years from the completion date.
- Collections and charged-off accounts: usually do not need to be paid off, though disputed accounts and court judgments do get scrutiny.
- No score at all: FHA permits a non-traditional credit report built from 12 months of on-time rent, utility, insurance or phone payments.
Debt-to-income is where FHA gets stricter than people expect. The baseline cap is 43%, and automated underwriting will push to 50% only when there are compensating factors, such as verified cash reserves or a long history of paying a similar housing payment on time.
The Down Payment Math for a Sub-620 Score
If your score is in the 500 to 579 range, the 10% requirement is the hurdle that matters far more than the rate. Three legitimate sources can fill it:
- Gift funds from a family member, documented with a gift letter and a paper trail of the transfer.
- Down payment assistance programs, many of which are forgivable second liens administered at the state or city level.
- Your own savings, seasoned in the account for at least 60 days.
What you can’t do is lean on the seller. FHA allows seller concessions up to 6% of the purchase price, but those dollars can only offset closing costs, prepaid taxes, insurance and discount points. They cannot cover your minimum 3.5% or 10% investment. Our walkthrough of FHA down payment requirements breaks down exactly which costs count toward that number and which don’t.
What FHA Lending Really Costs You Each Month
Two mortgage insurance charges come with every FHA loan. The upfront premium is 1.75% of the base loan amount. On a $289,500 base loan, that’s $5,066, and nearly everyone finances it into the loan rather than paying it at closing.
The annual premium is the one that shows up every month. For most 30-year FHA loans with less than 10% down, it runs 0.55% of the base loan amount, or roughly $133 a month on that same loan. Drop 10% or more and it falls to 0.50%.
Here’s the part that stings: if you put less than 10% down, that annual premium stays for the life of the loan. There’s no falling off at 20% equity the way conventional private mortgage insurance works. Putting 10% down gets you a termination after 11 years. This is why so many FHA borrowers refinance once their score recovers, and it’s a real cost worth planning for from day one. Our piece on what it actually costs to buy a house with bad credit puts the full picture in one place.
Moves That Strengthen a Weak Application Before You Apply
Underwriters aren’t only reading your score. They’re reading the story around it, and there is time to rewrite parts of that story before you apply.
Thirty days that move your score
Paying revolving balances down from 90% utilization to under 30% can add 50 to 80 points for a thin file. Getting under 10% does more. What you shouldn’t do in the same window is open a new card, finance a car, or co-sign anything for a relative. Each of those undoes weeks of progress.
What counts as a compensating factor
When your DTI is above 43%, underwriters look for offsetting strengths. Three to six months of mortgage payments in reserves helps. A clean 12-month rental history helps more than most buyers realize. A steady two-year employment history at the same employer, or in the same line of work, carries real weight. So does a minimal payment shock, meaning your new housing payment isn’t dramatically higher than what you pay now.
Fix the report before the lender does
Pull all three bureau reports and dispute anything wrong: a collection that was paid and reported as open, an account that isn’t yours, a late payment dated during a forbearance. Ask your loan officer about a rapid rescore, which can update corrected tradelines in a few business days instead of a full reporting cycle.
When FHA Isn’t the Right Answer
FHA is the most forgiving mainstream option, but it isn’t automatically the cheapest. If your score is already above 700, a conventional loan with 3% down and no life-of-loan mortgage insurance usually costs less over time. Veterans with any score should look at VA loans first, since they carry no monthly mortgage insurance at all. And buyers looking outside metro areas should price a USDA loan, which requires zero down and has its own credit flexibility. Our comparison of the best mortgage options for home buyers lays these side by side, and if you’re eyeing a small town or rural property, the real deal on zero-down USDA mortgages is worth twenty minutes of your evening.
A Realistic Six-Month Path From 572 to Pre-Approval
Say you’re sitting at 572 with $4,000 saved and $11,000 in credit card debt across three cards. Here’s how that generally plays out.
Month one: pull all three reports, file disputes, and stop using the cards. Months two and three: throw every spare dollar at the highest-utilization card until you’re under 30% across the board and your DTI is comfortably below 43%. Month four: call four or five FHA lenders and ask directly about their minimum score and whether they’ll work with a 572. Two will say no. Month five: apply with the best of them, submit a 12-month rent history and a gift letter from a parent for the gap between $4,000 and the required 10%, and get pre-approved. Month six: make offers.
Six months is a realistic timeline for that scenario, and it beats waiting three years hoping the score fixes itself. Nothing about a 572 score makes homeownership off-limits. It makes the paperwork longer, the down payment bigger, and the monthly premium more expensive. Those are obstacles you can plan around, and the borrowers who do plan around them are the ones who close.
